Discussion in 'Modding and Technical' started by Pipesub, Sep 7, 2015.
BTW - I just figured out that the silicone is to adhere the heat sink to the dual MOSFETs - I think
it's just a b**ch to remove, quite hard when it's cold, and sticky and gooey when it's hot. If you can get it just warm, it goes like chewing gum, and you can pick it out. I had better luck using acetone.
It does look like that is what they are trying to achieve. Though I hope there is not any silicone between the heat sink and mosfets. It's probably more like.....
"The silicone is to hold the heat sink in place on top of the mosfets"
You should find some thermal tape, or cpu grease between the heat sink and mosfet.
Can I ask a question about that mod, please @Pipesub .
If I recall correctly I believe you said it could run on 1 or 2 batteries. From that can I assume the batteries are set up in parallel? A brief lookie at the wiring diagram does suggest that too.
If so - that would be quite unusual these days, wouldn't it?
I'll have a look when I clear out the crap. What would you suggest to hold down the heat sink other than more crud?
I keep seeing the title of this thread as 'Thoughts on a conversation', and thinking it will be interesting.
Hmmmm? It's in a bad place, coz you feed tube is gonna go through there. At the very least your gonna hafta lay the heat sink down?
I think that will have to wait till you get rid of half the sled, and get the 510 in.......
I agree and can confirm that the unit does run on one battery however I'm not far enough along in my reading of MOSFET power sources to comment on what is uncommon.
One thing that I can comment on: The instructions that came with the mod state that you should only insert the batteries in the "correct orientation". BUT ... the battery sled shows for the left slot: + up, - down, right slot + up, - down (with the word "parallel") and in the r/h slot, the reverse polarity with the word "series". This makes sense but there is no statement for which is the "correct" orientation.
This I can say: when I was testing I saw this printing on the sled and thought I might not have the correct orientation so I put the batts in series (without an atomiser) the r/h battery positive terminal GOT TOO HOT TO TOUCH. So, parallel orientation or single battery (+ up. - down) for me.
LOL - yeah Jennifer, it's kinda turned into a group mod project hasn't it? Any advice?
EDIT - Oh, I just saw "conversation". I could start a philosophical thread in non-vaping
Dunno, I haven't a read a word of it, except the title and your post above! I was just stirring up trouble. So ignore me, and carry on as you were.
Thanks for your reply...
It's just that near every multi battery box I look at seems to be set up with batteries in series. There must be good reason for that - although I'm not sufficiently up on the technicalities to understand why.
Anyway - ta and pardon my interuption.
No interruption mate - all food for thought.
Series for regulated. Para for mech
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Ask and you will receive.
Which 510 option are you going with? I can send you the bits for the gdeal method if you like. I'm waiting on 1 set of solder lugs though
Never having seen any of the hardware (510s) before I haven't got a clue & don't know what the Gdeal method is .
Was I not paying attention?
Over the weekend I'll need to make some detailed measurements and take the box and components apart. Questions to answer:
- Distance from OD of 510 to switch for gnd lug.
- Diameter of existing 510 hole. Might be too big, might need drilling out.
- Size of new BF locking nut, might have to grind the inside corner of the box to fit.
- Depth of available BF 510s
- Figure how to rearrange the the MOSFET heat sink to allow for BF tube. With only 1 battery and my T-Puffer builds of 0.8 to 1.5Ω I may not need the heat sink at all.
^that post is the professional use of gdeal method. PM me your address if you want a vented screw, and other parts to do it. I can take measurements [with a ruler, so not calipers accurate]
Cheers & be gentle here: I'm not sure I see what you mean.
The above looks like you are suggesting the modification of the existing 510. I was going to replace it with a FD BF 510.
The existing 510 is a non-standard affair with no access to the centre pin due to the solid solder disc shown in previous pics.
I might be able to disassemble it but I won't know that until I fire up the soldering iron.
EDIT: ok - went through the whole slide show (Doh!) and I see a bit better what you mean. I guess the bottle tubing fits on to the threaded screw?