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Thoughts on a conversion

Discussion in 'Modding and Technical' started by Pipesub, Sep 7, 2015.

  1. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Hobart, Tasmania
    Cool - I'll have to see what I can do with the existing 510 first. It doesn't look promising.
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Browny

    Browny Senior Member

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    Jun 15, 2015
    Location:
    South of Melbourne
    You may have room to flip the heat sink on it's back across the mosfets, then if your lucky it may give the room you need for the 510 and squonk tube.
    The button should be fine to use already if you wanted to reduce replacement parts.
     
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  3. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Jun 3, 2015
    Location:
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    Yeah, I was already thinking that I could cut one fin off of the heat sink if it's too wide.
    Not having taken apart any 510s before I don't know if this one can be modified, even with DMs help. If not and I have to place an order with FDV I might as well stock up. ;)


    Sent from my ZX80 using CPM
     
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  4. Browny

    Browny Senior Member

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    Great minds think alike lol...exactly how I thought it, surely a little 'slimming' of the heatsink is possible if needed.

    I'd love to get a couple of FDV 510s but I'd only need 2-3 so not worth postal costs for that little.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2015
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  5. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Well if I do ever place an order I'll put it up for a group buy.


    Sent from my ZX80 using CPM
     
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  6. DogMan

    DogMan Yes

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    Jun 3, 2015
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    [​IMG]

    No modifying the one on there. Modifying a fd classic

    Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
     
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  7. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Location:
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    This is like learning a new language, how to dance the Tango, and what parts of town to stay out of... all at once.

    So, there is no modifying the stock 510. The stock 510 is a 22mm brass plated something recesses about 3 mm into the box. I was thinking is a V4 or 5 FDV 22 mm BF 510. But I guess that that might not fit. So, from your previous post I'm guessing that if I were to get a FD classic, you had some vented screws. Have I got that right?


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  8. DogMan

    DogMan Yes

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    i have the 510 i can send too
     
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  9. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Jun 3, 2015
    Location:
    Hobart, Tasmania
    That would be great DM.
    Pm me your postal address and your PP addy. I just bought a pair of digital callipers and I'd like to send you my analog ones as a thank you. not metal but they work and will get you started.


    Sent from my ZX80 using CPM
     
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  10. DogMan

    DogMan Yes

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    Jun 3, 2015
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    Mailed. I sent both the classic 510, with vented screw, oring, and solder lugs, as well as a v4 510. That way you can decide for yourself.

    Hopefully it will get there Monday for you
     
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  11. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Damn! Do you live next to the PO


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  12. DogMan

    DogMan Yes

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    Across the street lol

    Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
     
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  13. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Jun 3, 2015
    Location:
    Hobart, Tasmania
    I disassembled the box yesterday.

    [​IMG]

    510 assembly

    [​IMG]

    PCB underside

    [​IMG]

    Component area

    [​IMG]

    Dual SMD MOSFETs and Positive post. Looks like the goop is thermal paste. Interesting that the heat sink doesn't contact the MOSFETs.
    Heat transfer must be through the paste.

    [​IMG]

    I think I'll cut half the heat sink off with a dremel cutting disc. I'll also de-solder the battery sled and modify the R/H compartment for bottle placement.

    So - to do list:
    1. Reduce heat sink size for bottle clearance
    2. Modify battery sled for bottle
    3. Fit the new 510. Dogman has kindly sent me a classic BF 510. I will be left with a 20mm wide by 2mm deep cut out in the top of the box to fill if I want it to look nice. I'll have to give that some thought
    4.Cut out the squonk hole in the cover.

    Fun times ;)
     
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  14. Noe

    Noe Adorably quirky ... QUIRKY Noe! VCA Approved Post Whore

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    I'll disagree with that, my Series config dual 18650 Duke mod is a good example of a mech with series batts.

    What I have found is that parallel configed batts do not run for as long as series configed batts, running on the same ohm coils,l using identical batts.

    For me series is the better way to run a battery circuit, for longer run times.
     
  15. Noe

    Noe Adorably quirky ... QUIRKY Noe! VCA Approved Post Whore

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    Why not just drill a hole through the heat sink?
    All you need is a tube to fit through the hole you drill through right?

    That way you have virtually the same amount of heat dissipation, you just have to drill slowly & in the right place.
    I would also get a round jewelers file into the drilled hole, to clean up any sharp edges.
     
  16. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Hmm, I haven't measured but I think that the average tubing is larger than the fin spacing which would mean that I'd be drilling out fin material as well as a hole. I'm not even sure if I'll keep the heat sink as I'll only be running one 18650 and my builds don't go below 0.8Ω and are typically 1.2 - 1.4Ω. If I blow the chips I'll get to build a traditional MOSFET box ;)
     
  17. Noe

    Noe Adorably quirky ... QUIRKY Noe! VCA Approved Post Whore

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    Just use an over sized drill bit to drill out the fins, it should center easily between them for drilling them out equally. Then use the drill bit you need in the centered divot from the other bit, on the flat part of the heat sink.
    That's how I would attack it & by using the over sized bit you'll be allowing air to flow around the heat sink, which is what you want for heat dissipation.

    Personally, I wouldn't want to use that box for what you plan to use it for. I'd much rather find a box that could hold dual 18650's & a squonk bottle, mech or regulated but my ultimate box would be regulated, 100W capable & have TC.
    I know, I don't want much in a squonk box, just all the bells & whistles.
     
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  18. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Fair enough - personal prefs rule ;)
    It's an easy way to start messing around with modding though. Holes drilled, all parts (well most) present.
    As for your dream box - for me that would be waaay too big. You're talking at least 66mm wide for a dual batt sled + bottle + box walls and that's before you stuff in a TC regulator. I almost bought a Sunbox E7 Monster but decide that it was too big. I'm sure that your box is out there but it's probably megga bucks at the moment. China will catch up though. It's just a waiting game :)
     
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  19. Noe

    Noe Adorably quirky ... QUIRKY Noe! VCA Approved Post Whore

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    Nope, I looked at the internals of my Sigelei 100W plus box, which is about 55mm wide. There is some wasted space inside that box, that could be better used.
    With the boards & battery sleds redesigned re-positioned there'd be room for a bottle to squonk with.
    A 6ml bottle is big enough, most tank atties hold 5ml or less, also the bottle doesn't have to be round, why couldn't a flattened oval shaped bottle be used?
    I think China already has everything it needs to produce what I want, there just isn't enough demand for it (yet) & the high wattage "arms race" is driving what they think we all want at present.
     
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  20. Pipesub

    Pipesub Senior Member

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    Welllll - I'm taking my measurements from what I have on hand so I can see how a purpose built and designed mod would shed 11mm.

    Yeah, the 1Gigawatt & "Clouds Bro" brigade has a lot to answer for in my opinion. Idiots out there with quad + battery boxes.
    Just had a quick look and I'm aiming way too low.
    "This box mod takes 10 26650 batteries wired in parallel running @ 35,000 mAh in this video. It has 3 mosfets and 2 3v coin cells supplying 6 volts to the switch."


    I'm a happy Tootle Puffer thank you ;)
     
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